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Fryin' Under the Skyway at Sassy's
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by
Michael Lowe
July 22 - 28, 2010 |
Call them what you will: chip stand, fry truck, chip wagon, these roadside eateries are pretty popular at this time of year, especially when they benefit from scores of hikers, cyclists, inline skaters and motorists passing by. The second stop in our quest to find Niagara’s best fries and such is located at the corner of Eastchester Avenue and the Welland Canal Parkway in St. Catharines, practically in the shadow of the Garden City Skyway. Sassy’s Fries is a small, gleaming white trailer of sorts plastered with humorous sayings underscoring this lighthearted approach to dining out. Let’s face it you don’t go to the local chip wagon in search of much more than the basics. And the basics is what Sassy’s delivers.
Although most customers of Sassy’s order take out or grab a bite on the run, there is a quaint, covered deck on site that can comfortably seat six people at each of the four open air booths. Colourful vinyl table coverings and potted geraniums enhance the summertime pastime of watching the ships that pass by. Sassy’s menu offers hot dogs ($2.25–$3.25), mild, hot or honey–garlic sausages ($4.50), six–ounce burgers ($4), peameal bacon on a bun ($3.75), and a modest collection of shrimp or fish with chips and chicken burgers or fingers ($4.50–$7.75). Beverages consist of soft drinks and water ($1.25–$1.50). Oh yes, they also serve that revered French–Canadian favourite, Poutine. Or should I say “putsin?”
Not really a fan of poutine, somehow I feel compelled, if not obligated, to give it a try this time out so we order a small serving ($4.50), to accompany the chicken burger ($4.50), and a two–piece order of fish and chips ($6.95). We secure a table safe from the sun’s burning rays and wait to be called. Somewhere between five and 10 minutes passes when the signal to “pick up” comes and I retrieve our tray of deep fried goodies. The fries in the poutine are golden brown with a soft interior as they should be. The thick, savoury gravy is a typical chicken stock based version, most probably from a powdered mix, but light enough so as not to overpower the fries. Instead of fresh cheese curds, shredded mozzarella is scattered on top raising the caloric content and adding a mild cheesy flavour. A few bites is all I need before promising to ride an extra few kilometers on my next cycling trip to compensate. Man, the things a restaurant critic has to subject himself to in the name of professional journalism! My two–piece fish dinner consists of one good sized piece and one tiny triangular piece, both small enough to be eaten by hand. I am pleased with the very crisp, thin coating of batter and the moistness of the fish inside. Two pouches of commercial tartar sauce is provided but I would have much preferred a wedge or two of lemon. For the fries, Sassy’s provides the traditional British option, malt vinegar, which is also good drizzled over the fish. My companion’s chicken burger is actually two crispy chicken fingers placed inside a soft bun topped with mayo, crunchy iceberg lettuce, a slice of ripe tomato and dill pickle.
The staff at Sassy’s welcome customers with a smile, and for the regulars, some good–natured bantering. It’s a place where you can kick back and relax, grab a quick meal, and be on your way. Food quality and price are about average and be sure to leave your pretenses at home.
Sassy’s is open Monday through Saturday from 11am until 7pm and Sunday from noon until 5pm. V
Sassy’s Fries
530 Eastchester Ave., St. Catharines.
(905) 685–0760
2 out of 3 stars
MEETS EXPECTATIONS
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