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BISTRO PARISIEN
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by
Alexandra Bates
Sept.13,2007 |
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BISTRO PARISIEN
150 James St. S.
905.546.0003
bistroparisien.com
Bistro Parisien is situated in a stone Georgian style townhouse on
James Street South. The bistro is located on the main floor of the
house, in what was probably the living and dining room. Beautiful
plaster details in the ceiling and mouldings were uncovered and
restored by the current owners, and the floors have been taken
down to a highly polished hardwood. Modern cherry panelling has
been added to the bottom of the walls, and the tables, chairs and
bar are made of the same material. Overall, the space is a
pleasing marriage of the old and the new. When my guest and I
visited for a recent weekday lunch, our waiter let us choose our
own table, so we took a seat in front of one of the long casement
windows that faced onto the busy street and watched the varied
traffic, both pedestrian and vehicular.
It was a hot day, and I stuck to drinking water. Our server
thoughtfully brought us a carafe for the table after refilling my
glass a few times. My guest ordered a ginger ale ($2.50).
However, there is an extensive drink menu, including a number of
ports, sherry, and of course, cognac. Wines focus on French
labels, unsurprisingly, with prices ranging from $24.95 to $59.95
a bottle. There are also four wines (two red, two white) available
by the glass ($6.50–7.25) and half liter ($18.95–25.95). If there’s
a special bottle you’d like to share over a celebratory meal, they
offer a bring-your–own wine service with a corkage fee of $15 for
a standard 750ml bottle.
While we waited for our first courses, our waiter brought
slices of a fresh rosemary miche and a dish of butter, which was
both appreciated and delicious. For an appetizer, I chose the
rabbit pate ($10). Two large slices of the white pate were
beautifully presented, and accompanied by toast triangles, a hot
Dijon mustard, and strawberry confit. Both condiments were a
nice contrast to the rich meatiness of the pate, which was
enhanced with pistachio nuts and mild mustard seeds. This would
be an ideal appetizer to share, as I ended up taking about half
home.
My guest ordered the prix fixe lunch menu ($20.07), which
came with a choice of a salad or the soup of the day to start. He
ordered the soup, which was cream of broccoli on the day we
visited. The base was very rich and creamy, with lightly steamed
broccoli added. I find overcooked broccoli unpalatable, so I
thought the idea of adding the veg after cooking was an excellent
one, and my guest enjoyed the preparation.
For my main dish, I ordered the Trio of Petit Salads ($10). I
chose it because it was a nice contrast from the usual green lunch
salad. My favourite of the three was the bean salad, which
included crisp celery finely shredded onion along with the medley
of legumes. However, the other two salads were both excellent. I
really enjoyed the thinly sliced cucumbers in a light yet creamy
sauce, even though I don’t usually like dill. The florets of
cauliflower in a mild yellow curry sauce were also unusual and
tasty.
For my guest’s prix fixe menu, there was a choice of steak or
the fish of the day as an entrée. He opted for the steak rather
than the salmon. The dish was enormous, the plate piled high
with potatoes frites, topped with beef, which was sliced after it
was grilled. The meat was extremely tender, marinated in a red
wine sauce, and cooked as ordered to rare. The thinly cut fries
were also perfectly fried to crisp in peanut oil.
I didn’t order any dessert, but the seven offerings ($10)
looked pretty decadent, if a little pricey. There was a dessert
included with my guest’s meal, a light lemon mousse with fresh
berries. He was having trouble finishing it, so he offered it to me,
and I had to conclude that if the rest of the desserts at the
restaurant are as good as the one we tried, they’re worth the
money. A rich lemony custard filled a tall glass, with a thick
blueberry compote layered underneath. Blueberries and sliced
strawberries adorned the top. It was fresh, tart and delicious, and
quickly filled me up. I ordered a cappuccino to go along with
dessert ($4.50), and my guest had a French press coffee ($3).
Our experience at Bistro Parisien was nothing short of
excellent. The service was casual yet professional throughout our
meal. Although the prices are fairly expensive, the quality and
quantity of the food, and the presentation, make it worthwhile.
The prix fixe menu is an excellent option: a three–course lunch is
$20.07 Monday through Friday, and dinner is $30.07 Monday
through Thursday, and is probably one of the best values for
money in the city. Bistro Parisien is open for lunch from Monday
to Saturday, and for dinner seven days a week. Reservations are
recommended. V
[ALEXANDRA BATES]
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