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Local Guides
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THE KING OF SPRING ROLLS
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by
View
January 6 - 12, 2005 |
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Located in the gorgeous Georgian offices and shops
between Duke and Bold Streets on James South in
Hamilton is an exciting new eatery. It’s called Saigon
Soul Food and it claims to make “the best spring rolls on
the planet.”
When we walked into Saigon, chef Tâm Nguyen was
sitting at a big country kitchen table, behind the counter,
rolling fresh spring rolls. The décor in front of the counter
was upscale but comfortable, with distressed furniture
covered in a pile of the day’s papers. On the wall, an
arrangment of black and white photos show Saigon city
scenes from a time before Western culture invaded Asia.
Saigon is a take–out establishment. While there is
currently only one table and two chairs available, plans
are underway to install a lunch counter for eat–in
customers. Unlike most Asian take–outs, however, this
spot offers a compact menu that focuses on its pride:
those spring rolls.
Despite our large and complicated order, the owners
were happy to help us out. In the end, we had one of just
about everything on the menu.
Let’s get one thing out of the way immediately: Saigon
Soul Food does indeed make the most delicious spring
rolls I’ve ever had the pleasure to devour. We ordered a
mix of Traditional Pork, Vegetarian and Banana (Platter
Container of 30, $15). They also offer Chicken, but since
we’d arrived just before closing on a Friday evening, the
chicken supply had been depleted. No worries; the two–
inch–long packets of vegetables and tofu were addictive.
A surprise ingredient—sunflower seeds—gave the rolls
a smooth nuttiness.
The Banana Spring Roll, with slices of fresh banana
and coconut, was heated to sweet perfection. Nguyen
suggests serving the dessert roll with ice cream and
chocolate sauce, but my guests and I ate them too fast to
bother with presentation. All spring rolls can be
purchased hot or frozen, making them an ideal lunch
option or elegantly simple supper.
The other staple of the menu is a set of two Garden
Wraps ($5), a mixture of greens—plain, shrimp or
chicken—and rice noodles wrapped in a translucent rice
paper wrap. While the inclusion of coriander leaves
marred my enjoyment of the healthy and surprisingly
filling wrapped sandwich (I’m just not a coriander leaves
kind of gal), the homemade Hoisin and Peanut Sauce
was a delicious accompaniment.
Rounding out the offerings is the Soul Food board with
daily specials. To start, we had a Chicken Wonton Soup
($4.00) that had a delicate, sweet broth. We also chose
the Chicken Breast ($6.50), a plate of chicken marinated
and served in a tangy lemongrass and ginger sauce on
a bed of fragrant rice. The special offerings are freshly
made every day and freshly prepared per order.
Saigon Soul Food can boast a tasty and reasonably
priced menu with just enough variety to keep meals
interesting. I look forward to visiting often. V
[LEANNE KEMMLER]
SAIGON SOUL FOOD
152 James St. S.,
Hamilton
905.529.8181
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