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Local Guides
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BROWNIE’S ELEGANT YET PERSONAL
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by
Leanne Kemmler
August 18 – 24, 2005 |
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King Street, just east of the core, is slowly being
revitalized. Brownie’s Downtown is part of that process.
This restaurant, in the space that was once Rose’s
Bakery, is a welcome addition to the neighborhood.
The cream–coloured walls brighten the long, narrow
space considerably, while clear glass chandeliers and
sconces provide a delicate glow. White linens and chair
covers of buff cotton complete the white on white look. A
short bar and lunch counter dominate the front section,
while tables for two–dozen diners take up the latter two–
thirds of the room.
Upon our entrance, an owner greeted us warmly and
showed us to a table. After bringing us our drinks, she
told us a little about the restaurant and took our orders.
We had decided to share an appetizer and chose one of
the many Crostinis on offer ($6). The one we chose
featured provolone, film–thin prosciutto and a thick slice
of cool roasted red pepper on a well–toasted baguette.
Delicious! Cracked pepper provided a gently biting finish
to this fresh–tasting canapé.
The wait for our entrees was quite long—really long—
although I suppose that it wouldn’t have seemed long at
all had we been making our way through a delicious
bottle of wine or enjoying a few cocktails with supper.
We talked about the jazz that was playing on the sound
system, and just as our patience was about to give way,
dinner arrived on large white plates.
My guest had requested the pork tenderloin ($14.50).
The 10oz cut was drizzled with a merlot and berry
reduction. This was a refreshing counter to the meaty
taste of the pork. The meat itself was exceptionally moist,
to my guest’s delight. It was accompanied by a serving of
garlic–mashed potatoes—made with fresh crushed
garlic—and lightly sautéed carrots and green beans.
I had ordered the Seafood Marinara Pasta ($15).
Scallops, shrimp and crab were cooked in a simple
tomato sauce over fettuccine noodles. I have to admit
that my dish disappointed me. The sauce was bland and
full of oil, and the scallops were chewy—I couldn’t figure
out if some of the chewy bits were crab or if they’d simply
omitted this item from the dish and the noodles were
stuck together in clumps.
It was definitely a nice touch that the chef, also an
owner, came out of the kitchen to chat with guests and
make sure they were fine. I was too shy to admit I didn’t
enjoy the pasta, in part because I didn’t want to give
anyone any trouble, and also because I was afraid of
further delay to my meal.
We ended up skipping dessert, but I overheard another
table discussing the dessert selections available that
day and they definitely sounded tempting. Perhaps next
time, because I have no doubt there will be a next time.
The price and décor make this a fine dining experience.
But, the atmosphere, while seriously elegant, was
thoroughly modern and relaxed. The proprietors really
took the time to interact with us and make sure we were
well cared for and that personal touch was a big factor in
setting the tone of our evening. I’m curious about their
lunch menu—no doubt it’s as luxe as their suppers. V
BROWNIE’S DOWNTOWN
275 King St. E.
Hamilton
905.526.6047
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